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The Name: Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord.
Object: Nalumasortoq West Face
Expedition Leader: Valery Rozov
Sponsors:
Expedition members:
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Valery Rozov
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Arkady Seregin
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Timur Ahmedkhanov |
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Alexander Lastochkin |
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Lev Dorfman- - video
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Dmitry Lifanov – photo
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Brief
outline of the project:
In July 2003
our team is planning an expedition to Greenland. In the southern
part of the island near Tasermiut fjord there is a number of peaks
with vertical granite faces ranging from 850m to 1400m!
Mountaineers have recently started exploring
this region, but it has already become popular. It is compared to
Yosemites with its long routes, steep granite walls, and with Patagonia
with its treacherous climate.
The weather here is influenced by the ocean
and Greenland ice cap – its’ ice is literary flowing into the waters
of Tasermiut fjord. The wind known as “Fohn” blows often along 100-km
long fjord and it brings a long spell of bad weather. It can reach
the speed of 170 km/ph.
 The
objective of our expedition is the least explored peak of the
region called Nalumasortoq (2054m). It has the vertical gain of
850 – 1000m. The face is absolutely vertical and sometimes overhanging.
The first ascent of this face was done in 2000 by a French-Italian
team. It was given the grade of (850 ì,6ñ+,À3+). Our team plans
to put a new line in the western (more extend) part of the face
of Nalumasortoq. And from the upper part of the face Valery Rozov
will do a BASE jump in wing-suit .
We continue the new trend we started during
our Great
Sail Peak expedition to Arctic Canada. We call it "BASE
climbing"!
No Russian climbers have ever made ascents
in this region (and in Greenland as well). And no one has ever done
a BASE jump in this region!
 Valery
Rozov . B.A.S.E. Interview for Mountain.RU
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Russian
"Russian
Extreme Project"
Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord, Nalumasortoq West Face
Expedition News:
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Timur
Ahmedhanov and "the Russian Extreme project " in Greenland
 (13.11.2003)
"...When we were swimming through
to area, it became visible these walls, and the first we could
see was Ulumasortoq Wall. This wall is much more assimilated
then others. It is also located closer to a fjord. And it
makes a very strong impression..."
Interviewed by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
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(10.07.2003)
 "Russian
Extreme Project" Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord,
Nalumasortoq West Face
"Hello everyone, Seregin, Lastochkin
and Ahmedhanov started working on the wall. They passed the
lower band of rocks and climbed half a pitch. The difficulty
is higher then average, approximately A3+, lots of flakes
and loose rock, overhangs. Rozov, Dorfman, Lifanov went around
the wall in search of easy decent route. But failed to find
it. From behind it looks almost the same. The only variant
of descent is the ascent route. It's not yet clear what to
do with Dima and Leva. The weather is getting worse and colder,
misty. Everyone is in good health. "
Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" -
mountain wear and information support
"Canon"
- photo and video equipment
"Paraavis"
- parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses
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(8.07.2003)
"Russian
Extreme Project" Expedition to Greenland, Tasermiut fjord,
Nalumasortoq West Face
"Hello everyone, We are still
carrying equipment to ABC. We had a funny accident. One of
us - we won't mention his name - fell into the bog and got
stuck there up to his waist, we got him out, the equipment
was not damaged, the sinking guy is also ok, just soaked.
In the photo you can see our wall. We are planning to climb
the central part of the wall to the right tower.  The
wall looks like an open book. Our route lies on the right
side. Tomorrow we are finally moving to the base of the wall.
By the evening we are planning to start working on the route.
We chose to leave our generator, so we won't send messages
every day.
We've just came after fishing. For dinner we have a 2-kilo
fish and 2 kg of sea-food. The weather is good. You know about
mosquitoes already. Bye, Till then. "
Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" -
mountain wear and information support
"Canon"
- photo and video equipment
"Paraavis"
- parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses
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(7.07.2003)
 Hello,
We brought the equipment to the wall. The approach to the
wall took us about 6 hours. The lane was mushy and overgrown
with plants. From the distance the wall looked differently.
It is dominating at the end of the valley as a giant fence.
We looked through the variant of our ascent and chose the
left side of the second tower. It hasn't been climbed before.
With binoculars we could see a logic system of cracks, two
big overhangs, the wall is at least vertical. We decided to
move our BC 3-4 hours up the valley. Tomorrow the first party
of two will spend a night at the wall, and the day after tomorrow
they will start working on the route. It got a bit colder
today, but in general the weather is favorable. The mosquitoes
are terrible. Up the valley there are many other nice objects
for climbing. The region resembles both Patagonia and Karavshin.
Arkady went fishing, Lastochkin is tormenting the guitar,
the others are tormenting the phone and computer trying to
send this message. We celebrated Lev's son's birthday. There
is another wall nearby, in the background of the picture,
called ULUMOSORTOG. Everything is OK, bye!
Sponsors:
"Salomon"
"Bask" -
mountain wear and information support
"Canon"
- photo and video equipment
"Paraavis"
- parachute equipment
Oakley - top glasses
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